Crucifixions, Self-Flaggelations and Adobo
April 5th, 2007 by bikuchan4/6/07 Ilocos Sur, Las Pilipinas
HAPPY GOOD FRIDAY EVERYONE! … not sure if I’ve ever used this greeting, but it seems appropriate right here, right now. We’re two days into Holy Week and the exodus out of Manila is in full effect. The working masses of the nation’s capital take this 5-day National holiday to get out of the city and return to their respective provinces to celebrate the death and resurrection of THE Man. Oh, and did I mention that it’s a National Holiday? Division of Church and State - whas’ dat???
Today in the Province of Panpanga people are killing themselves slowly, all in the name of being a devout Catholic … at least that’s why I THINK they’re doing it. Check it: http://asiabill.pages.web.com/id11.html
Shocking as it may be, Catholicism is indeed an inextricable part of this country. Having seen what seems to be a ga-jillion buddahs in the past three years during my exploits in Asia, coming to The Philippines and witnessing this kind of in-your-face religiousity reminds me that, no, ToTo, this ain’t Bangkok no more. Thanks to the reminders like the tiles bearing the images of Jesus and Mary which bless the gateways to homes in Manila to the bumper stickers advising "If you’re moving in the wrong direction, JESUS allows U-turns", the Catholic Church finds YOU before you are given a chance to look for it here in The Philippines.
Putting death and resurrection aside for a moment, today also marks my second week in this country on my fourth visit. Arriving in Manila from Bangkok, and before then, Saigon, the differences of the three cultures are palpable. Differences? Perhaps I should say similarities - this country’s similarities with myself. From my initial landing in Ninoy Aquino International Airport, the familiarity of The Philippines made me feel like I was home away from home - kinda tough when you’re an aspiring gypsy. The sound-bytes of language, the faces, the machine guns - all of these things made it clear that I was travelling, but not; far and close at the same time. In a country where you can roll up to a town, give the cops a surname and get a police escort to a private residence, you get the feeling that nothing and no one is THAT foreign [true story: tried to get to my Lola's house (Grandma's sister) and my Manang (older sister) forgot to give me her Barangay (district number/name) - after chatting with the cops and disclosing some key names, I landed infront of Nana at her doorstep, greeted lovingly by curses in my parent's native Ilocano]
And then there’s the food. After relishing over exotic Chinese, Thai, Laotian, and Vietnamese food for the past 3 months, recognizable filipino dishes like Tuyo, Lumpia, and the best Adobo I’ve had in almost a decade made my tongue feel like it had re-united with old friends (don’t go there). I’m not ready to handle the Balut (un-hatched duck embryos) but the other stuff brings me back to coming here as a child and having the foods regularly for the first time.
All this said, this country still has alot to share with me, and I with it. Being in such a familiar place is, of course, appreciated and comfortable, but I can feel the itch already (and, no, I’m not talking about my legs which have been a feeding ground for mosquitoes - gwoss!). The itch that got me out of my parents’ home town to the city in which my sister was raised to the current coastal town that I’m at now… the travelling bug. So diverse is this country and it’s people, migrating from place to place is a constant lure, epecially for someone like me that has a mole on his heel {Filipino superstition cites this physical characteristic as a cause for one to wander and explore}. Got about a week before Manang Vida makes it to here, a week to run around and in search of some new island stories. Until those stories have un-earthed themselves, I’ll end this with DIOS TI KAMUYOG! or GODSPEED!